How to Wear a Double Breasted Jacket

The double-breasted jacket is more popular than ever — and for good reason. A time-honoured wardrobe staple, it has consistently stood the test of time, evolving with modern tailoring while retaining its classic appeal. Today, it remains a powerful choice in bespoke menswear, suitable for both formal occasions and refined everyday wear.

With its structured silhouette and bold aesthetic, a double-breasted bespoke jacket is a statement piece that instantly elevates your wardrobe.

What is a double-breasted jacket?

The term “double-breasted” refers to a coat or jacket featuring two parallel columns of buttons and overlapping front panels. While there may be multiple rows of buttons, typically only one or two are functional.

This structure is described using a “number-on-number” format — for example, 6×2 (six visible buttons, two fastening). Traditionally, double-breasted jackets feature peak lapels, with the left side fastening over the right, creating a sharp and defined silhouette.

In bespoke tailoring, every element — from button placement to lapel width — can be customised to complement your body shape and personal style, ensuring a perfect fit that off-the-rack garments cannot achieve.

The origins of the double-breasted jacket

Buttons and buttonholes came into fashion during the 13th and 14th centuries, when tailored clothing replaced draped and pinned clothing, such as cloaks. This new fashion required a row of buttons to hold the inner and outer layers of fabric together. To maintain the symmetry of the garment, a matching row of buttons was added on the opposite side of the jacket.

The double-breasted jacket was loosely modeled after the naval reefer jacket, commonly called a pea coat, and was made popular by the Prince of Whales in the 1920s and 30s. Although they moved to the background over the last century, this timeless and flattering style has come back with a vengeance.

How many buttons does a double-breasted jacket have?

Based on your build and preferred style, a double-breasted jacket uses a variety of button configurations, including 4×1, 4×2, and 6×2 (the first number represents the number of visible buttons and the second is the number of buttons that actually fasten). The button position, overlap distance between the front panels, and lapel proportions can all be modified to your personal preference, style, and body measurements.

How to wear a double-breasted jacket?

As a comfortable alternative to single-breasted jackets, the double-breasted blazer can be worn anywhere a single-breasted jacket is worn. Although considered more dapper than a single-breasted, the double-breasted jacket can be worn to the office, out to dinner, or to any other informal event. There are two trains of thought when it comes to wearing a double-breasted jacket:

• Let the suit do the talking: the jacket is a statement in and of itself, so when wearing one for dressier occasions, such as a wedding, keep your shirt and tie combo relatively simple with basic patterns or solid colors.
• Go big and bold: When the occasion allows for it, pair your bespoke jacket with bold colors and patterns for your tie, shirt, pocket square, and even socks.

However, there are a few things to consider before you wear your jacket:

• • Tailor your jacket to ensure the perfect fit, and don’t forget the pocket square.
  • Peak your lapels to accentuate your shoulders.
  • Never button the bottom button to ensure you don’t wreck the lines of the jacket.
  • Keep it simple, as the double-breasted jacket is a statement piece.
  • When in doubt, stick to 6 buttons.
  • Dress it up with a french cuff.

Collars & Cuff Bespoke Suits

At Collars & Cuffs, we specialise in creating bespoke suits, custom shirts, and tailored jackets that reflect your individual style. With decades of craftsmanship and attention to detail, every garment is designed to fit you perfectly — both in form and personality.

Our bespoke process begins with a personalised consultation, where you are introduced to a curated selection of premium fabrics and design options. From there, each piece is carefully crafted to your exact measurements, ensuring a result that is both elegant and uniquely yours.

For added convenience, we also offer a travelling tailor service, bringing the full bespoke menswear experience directly to your home or office.

Contact a member of our team to schedule your complimentary appointment.